Organic, spontaneous fermentation, unfined, unfiltered, no SO2
Oh. Boy. Susucaru is the highly sought after, extremely limited, flagship wine from Frank Cornelissen- the madman of Mt Etna who has become synonymous with rigorously, 100% naturally made wine. Frank farms 19 hectares high up in the North Valley of Mt Etna, a spot chosen for its biodiversity and volcanic soils. The grapes are grown without chemical treatments of any kind, and the work in the cellar is obsessively low intervention- no added yeasts, no sulfites, only neutral epoxy tanks or clay amphoras for cellaring. The goal is to have the wines express their specific terroir as fully as possible- for each bottle to be a liquid representation of the mountain.
The Susucaru is delectible and complex. On the nose I get fresh cut cedar, new books, and dried floral notes. The wine is surprisingly structured considering how light the coloring is, with lots of blackberry and spice.
“Our farming philosophy is based on our acceptance of the fact that man will never be able to understand nature’s full complexity and interactions. We therefore choose to concentrate on observing and learning the movements of Mother Earth in her various energetic and cosmic passages and prefer to follow her indications as to what to do, instead of deciding and imposing ourselves. Consequently this has taken us to avoiding all possible interventions on the land we cultivate, including any treatments, whether chemical, organic, or biodynamic, as these are all a mere reflection of the inability of man to accept nature as she is and will be. The divine ability to understand the ‘Whole’ was obviously not given to man as we are only a part of this complex and not God himself.”